Sunset

Sunset from Rånö island in the Swedish archipelago

Late night in Rånö.

When I left Sweden the sun was setting at 9:47pm – I know because new friends of mine debated when it would disappear below the horizon a couple days before I left. And THEN it would slow wane and stay sort of light until 10:30 or 11 at night. Here’s a picture from around 11 a couple of nights before I left.

Being in the Solomon Islands and closer to the Equator and the Southern hemisphere’s winter, I’ve been struck by the early sunset. It’s 18:50 and completely dark, what is this? The chatter and cheering of the boys who played late afternoon soccer on the street outside has ceased. The PA announcements of the central market have gone silent after the 6pm “finished”. There’s the sound of a few passing cars, hums of TVs or generators, but otherwise, it’s nighttime.

I’m not in sunny, summery Sweden anymore. But it ain't half bad...

Lovely sunset in Honiara, Solomon Islands from Iron-Bottom Sound. 

Warning to blog readers

I may become more prolific (read: verbose) in coming weeks. There are multiple unfinished blogs or blog ideas from my spring in Uppsala. While I’m still settling into the rhythm of life in the Solomon Islands, I expect to have a bit more time to devote for my musings.

Disclosure:

Once again, these thoughts are my own and don’t reflect opinions of the Rotary International, the Foundation or the United Nations.

Rainy Sunday afternoon in Honiara. View of the harbor from
atop the hill.  Central Market roof visible at left. 

Barefeet

Barefoot running was all the rage a number of years ago. Sports magazines heralded it as the most natural and health beneficial approach to foot care. http://www.runnersworld.com/running-shoes-gear/barefoot-running-minimalism In 2006 a company, TOMS in Los Angeles was set up to provide a pair of shoes for people in need for every shoe consumers bought. I was recently given a pair of these shoes and they are super comfortable, before I’d been quite suspect of them, because despite not wanting to become one of those nay-sayers who creates a ‘damned if you do, damned if you don’t worlds’, I’m often suspect of for-profit efforts in the rich-countries hoping to help the “poor” or “needy” in another part of the world, particularly if it is selling a product produced by those “poor” elsewhere. Why not just promote better labor practices elsewhere? But that is likely unfair – perhaps they are. I certainly want to commend companies taking corporate responsibility seriously – and a look at the TOMS website suggests that they do. http://www.toms.com/corporate-responsibility/l

My red TOMS looking out at the sunset in Sweden.

I was struck when arriving in the capital city of the Solomon Islands how many people were going barefoot. People of all ages and ones with pretty nice clothes, not just people who are obviously homeless or living on the street or without resources to wash their clothes.

This was surprising to me because in my (limited) experience, in a capital city with sidewalks and paved streets – albeit potholed and disrepair ones, usually people are at least wearing flip-flops (thongs).

It reminded me of the Czech family I saw walking in a Prague park in May and a friend in 4^th grade who would walk barefoot in the summer her self-proscribed “foot strengthening” and other funny trends by people with lots of money and thus choice to simulate barefoot running.

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But keep buying TOMS if you do – they are comfortable and sensible shoes and companies trying to make and effort to raise or consciousness and look at their own labor practices are good. But even better shop at co-op companies or non-profit ones like Ten Thousand Villages. Or H&M is better than Old Navy in the cheap clothing production world.

Mendana Avenue

There is one main street adjacent to the sea – it isn’t lined with trees unfortunately, so you try to duck into the shadows of buildings. Mendana Avenue has a few hotels with waterfront property. The oil tankers and companies make up a portion of the seaside with a bunch of ships porting directly to the shore and a number spotted out a km or 2, I suppose because of their size. Opposite the sea shore is quite a steep hill, a couple of blocks in from the coast and buildings and roads make there way up the hill, a few on stilts at the front so that they can have floors all at one level.

View from the hill to the sea and Market is greenish roof on the left.

The Central Market is partway down Mendana Avenue backing up to the waterfront. It is nice and big and open-aired with vendors sitting and filling most of the built in tables, particularly on Saturdays. The fish market is right next door, but on a particularly hot day, you can smell it at the far side of the market, closer to the harbor.

The Swedes' Superbowl

The Superbowl is the largest television event in the U.S.. Many people have chili making contests or just go ahead and chow down on nachos, buffalo wings, and beer, not to mention layered bean dip. Oh, and there is football. Or a half-time show and commercials if you’re not into sports. For others, many of my facebook friends included, it’s the perfect time to point out how not into sports you are and all the other wonderful things you’re spending your time on. In that vain... I had to ask a friend (who was throwing a party and probably has never watched a full sports game) who was playing.

Food, fun and friends. The three essentials to a party.

Back in December the Rotary Host Area Committee Coordinator, Suzanne had the Rotary Fellows over for a big meal with a rented big screen TV. Together we would view and be merry. But it wasn’t a major sports event or even a Eurovision contest.* It was for the Nobel Prize Ceremony.

In September when we first arrived, dear Suzanne excitedly suggested we gather at her house on December 10 to watch the prizes for Literature, Physics, Chemistry and Physiology or Medicine handed out by the Swedish King. So on that Monday evening we took the train to Stockholm to enjoy the event. While analyzing the Princesses’ dresses, Swedes suggested it was like the Oscars. Of course. Of course, the Swedes’ Oscars is the Nobel Prize ceremony for sciences and literature. Whatever part of me that has pride in American ingenuity or is at all nationalistic, feels a little knocked down by the comparison of our respective major “cultural” events.

Former Rotary District Governor gives presentation on the
life of Alfred Nobel.

The dinner party did not disappoint. Not only did our able host prepare a gorgeous meal for 25+ people, she had also hunted the elk and moose herself. Accompanied with delicious lingonberry sauce and boiled then pan fried potatoes, and of course a nice red wine - the meal was amazing.  (Not to mention the hors d’oeuvres of salmon with a slice of lemon and camembert on hardbread and champagne.)

So while I love a good 7-layer bean dip, the Swedes have something on us thanks in part to a generous gift of the dynamite inventor, Alfred Nobel and the Austrian author and peace activist Bertha von Suttner, who is thought to have inspired the award.

Rotary Fellows listen to remarks about the Nobel Prize and
watch the ceremony on Swedish television.

*Sorry for the dig, Europeans.